After nearly two years and three fashion seasons in the Covid-19 pandemic, Spring/Summer 2022 brought some normalcy back to the runway format
The season kicked off in New York City in time for the Met Gala, then headed to London and Milan before ending in Paris - with star-studded front rows reminiscent of pre-Covid days. As the world recovers and lockdowns become a thing of the past, fashion is making up for lost time with more glitz and glamour than ever.
Collections from Spring/Summer 2022 signal a shift towards dopamine dressing, with bigger and bolder elements which contrast the minimalism dominating the industry post-Covid. But how have these trends performed in the mass market? To support retailers creating in-demand assortments, we’ve prepared a definitive guide to runway trends validated by data.
Y2K Revival
Across the four fashion cities, Y2K wear was hard to miss as almost every designer dabbled with their own take on the trends. Low-rise cuts, midriff-baring tops and micro shorts and skirts are just some of the elements that are featured on the runways.
The revival of Y2K fashion is not a recent occurrence as it has been brewing for a long time. Gen Z is among the biggest drivers - videos with the hashtag #Y2KFashion have amassed 210 million views on TikTok, generating interest among consumers.
Cropped Cardigans
Cropped cardigans are a major departure from their oversized counterparts of previous years. This season, designers went with barely-there iterations that were all the rage in the early 2000s, often paired with mini dresses or skirts.
More of an accessory than functional outerwear, the increase in cropped cardigans on the runways show that fashion is transitioning from the practical lockdown pieces to trendy designs in response to shifting demand.
In the mass market, consumers are buying both cropped cardigans and other outerwear for similar trend looks. As seen in the above chart, cropped outerwear has been gaining traction in the US and UK. Cropped vests in particular have been selling well despite smaller product count, signaling an opportunity to optimise the cropped outerwear demand by offering more variety.
Low-rise Jeans
After cropping up here and there over the past few fashion seasons, low-rise jeans are back in full force for Spring/Summer 2022. The latest denim trend was polarized in the early 2000s as it wasn’t the most flattering style. Millennials who lived through the era of low-slung jeans will remember how restrictive the style was as it only looked good on the ultra-thin, which perpetuated impossible beauty standards.
This has since changed, with the low-rise jeans spotted at fashion month nearly always came in baggy and oversized silhouettes in low waistline, creating a body-inclusive take on an iconic Y2K trend.
Low-rise jeans have yet to saturate the mass market, with only 677 products currently retailing in the US and UK, with a healthy sell-out rate of over 50%.
It’s important to choose the right subcategories to work the low-rise trend into your assortment as it does not suit all jeans styles. As we can see in the above analysis, oversized silhouettes like flare, wide leg and bootcut jeans in low-rise performed better at full price than styles like skinny jeans and jeggings, which were mostly driven by discounts.
Mini Skirts
Unlike previous Spring/Summer collections, 2022 is the year of short hemlines. Miu Miu’s iteration of the mini skirt was nearly a carbon copy of the Y2K era styles, complete with the ultra-low waistline. Meanwhile, other brands like Christian Dior and Chanel offered a more work-appropriate take on mini skirts with their preppy colourful suits.
Fast fashion brands have been investing more in mini skirts this past year and are seeing positive returns. Newness went up to 36% this year in the US and UK while the sell-out rate holds steady at 57%.
Consumers are clearly buying into the trend, which means the rest of the market will be next to capitalise on this rising trend. Understanding the right patterns and colours to produce mini skirts gives you an upper edge to accurately meet demand.
Arts & Crafts
Like everyone else in quarantine, designers too have picked up craft hobbies and DIY during extended periods at home, which translated into their designs for Spring/Summer 2022.
Throughout fashion weeks, there was an uptick of handpainted, handcrafted and custom-made pieces with unique fabrics and details. Many designers also challenged the imagination by incorporating colour or abstract, artful patterns to elevate established techniques.
Crochet
Crochet was a recurring theme on the runways this season as a way to play up textures. Designers like Altuzarra layered crochet over an otherwise plain suit for this exact reason. Meanwhile, designers like Gabriela Hearts and Alberta Ferretti presented head-to-toe crochet ensembles in unique patterns and bold colours.
Crochet products performed well this past year, accumulating a total sell-out rate of 62%. Dresses, tops and swimwear were the most stocked categories.
Bold Prints
After a long and difficult period in the pandemic, bold prints represent hope, optimism and positivity. Some of the more popular patterns spotted on the runways were florals, graphic, abstract and checks.
When it comes to incorporating patterns in an assortment, having access to trend insights can save you from investing in the wrong prints. While floral was one of the most popular patterns during fashion month, it has not translated to strong sales in the mass market. The same can be said for another popular summer pattern, animal print, which has been trending down.
The New Sexy
An unmissable trend seen on Spring/Summer 2022 runways was revealing outfits compared to past seasons when minimalism and oversized everything reigned. Sheer fabrics, cut-out details, long slits and bodycon fits are just some of the ways designers are embracing the new social freedom.
At Moda Operandi, mini skirts, sheer tops and bodycon dresses are selling faster than ever as consumers gravitate towards flashier, more revealing clothes to celebrate the return to normalcy now that people are allowed to travel and socialise.
The Bralette
Already featured heavily during the last Fall/Winter runway season, the bralette was seen at countless shows last month. Designers paired bralettes with pieces that provided more coverage like suits and jackets to contrast the minimalist bra.
Since the trend of pairing bralettes with suits grew popular last fall, the style has grown significantly in fast fashion. The total product count for bralettes went by 127% YoY in the US and UK. At the same time, sell-out rates for the style also increased by 115%. A closer inspection on best-selling products shows bralettes with matching pants or skirts in co-ords are preferred by the consumers.
Sheer
Sheer fabric had a major moment during the fashion month, from the nearly see-through versions that left little to the imagination or the more understated styles as seen at Fendi and Theophilio. Sheer dresses were also the outfit of choice for celebrities at the Met Gala, another nod to the idea of freedom and celebration.
The demand for sheer products has been rising in the mass market as well since summer started. Sell-outs shot up significantly in May and has been holding steady until now, a 109% increase from last year.
Key Takeaways
The trends that dominated the runways this season is a stark contrast from what we’ve seen for a few seasons now. Fashion is transitioning away from muted minimalism and fully embracing its newfound freedom with trends that aptly fit the current celebratory mood.
While the runway is a good trend source for assortment planning, it’s important to note that not all trends translate to sales in the mass market. Having access to market insights can help you monitor trend progression over time and make strategic changes as needed - before it’s too late.