.jpg)
The recent Glasgow Climate Conference urged the world for change as we enter the world’s worst climate crisis in our lifetime. In an effort to limit the global temperature increase to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels, heads of industry were given a solid warning to reduce emissions and clean up their supply chains.
According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions every year which can mainly be attributed to the production process.
Over the last few years, mega brands such as Adidas, H&M and Zara are pivoting to more environmentally friendly materials to offset their carbon footprint. Despite higher costs involved in producing sustainable products, recent consumer behaviour shows customers are shopping more consciously than before and are willing to spend more for sustainably-sourced products.
Leading sustainable materials of the year
Overall, the adoption of sustainable materials by fashion brands across categories have increased this year compared to 2020 according to Omnilytics data. Besides famous eco-friendly brands like Patagonia and Everlane, many fast fashion brands such as ASOS, Monki and Pretty Little Thing have introduced sustainable capsules into their product assortment.
The data also revealed that there was a higher number of sustainable women’s products compared to mens. Tops and activewear were the top two categories that were sourced using sustainable materials.
Organic Cotton
The low-water, non-GMO substitute to cotton was the number one choice of sustainable material for most brands. In comparison to last year, there was a 138% increase in women’s products made with organic cotton. Online giant ASOS recorded the highest number of organic cotton products with 15,412 SKUs, followed by Zara with 12,325 SKUs and H&M at 9,429 SKUs. Uptrending categories made of organic cotton included Jeans, Swimwear and Intimates.
The category that achieved the highest sell-out at full price was Jeans at 75%. Best selling styles include worn-out jeans with bold embellishments and patterns, in-line with Gen Z trends as well as the straight cut and the baggy fit.
Recycled Plastic
A substitute for polyester, recycled plastics can be used in a multitude of ways. It is commonly integrated into spandex, rayon and nylon blends, as well as the core material for swimwear and activewear clothing. Adidas and Timberland have also been using recycled plastic bottles to create soles for their shoes to cut down the use of virgin plastic. Omnilytics data reported over 200% increase in the use of recycled plastics across the womens’ category this year against 2020. Key uptrending product categories include Bags, Shoes and Activewear.
Activewear was a key driver for this material, achieving a sell-out of 78% at full price. Best sellers include sports bras, activewear sets and leggings.
TENCEL™
TENCEL™ is quickly becoming the preferred plant-based alternative to Lyocell and Modal fibres. Sourced from wood, TENCEL™ branded Lyocell and Modal fibres are often combined with other textiles such as cotton, wool, polyester and silk to improve their functionality.
Since last year, the number of SKUs with TENCEL™ across the women's category has increased by 63%. TENCEL™ is also becoming increasingly common within fast fashion - more than 1,000 SKUs were found at ASOS and Reformation. TENCEL™ has also been widely adopted to make Intimates, Activewear and Swimwear due to its silky and breathable finish. This year, uptrending product categories with TENCEL™ include Intimates, Dresses and Jeans.
Best selling Dresses made with Tencel. Source: Omnilytics
Dresses were a key category for this material, achieving a sell-out of 72%. Key styles included Wrap Dresses and Bodycon Dresses with cut-outs and tie detailing. In addition to being completely biodegradable, TENCEL™ has also set a net-zero emissions target for 2050. TENCEL™ Carbon Zero involves a three-step plan to reduce, engage and offset, resulting in TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibres that are completely carbon zero as certified by Global standards of Sustainability (HIGG Index).
Sustainability Trends On The Rise
1. Bio-based Materials
One of the biggest areas of growth for sustainable fashion this year has been bio-based materials. From flower petals to cactus leather, many brands experimented with various plant sources to recreate the texture of silk and leather. Vegan leather has been a particular area of interest for luxury fashion, Hermes announced that it would be incorporating a mushroom-derived leather alternative called Sylviana for its bags, while Parisian brand Chloe introduced an apple-based leather for its accessories line.
2. Monetizing Resale and Rented Fashion
As the fashion industry heads towards a more circular future, the resale industry has become increasingly difficult to ignore. Powered by Gen Z’s renewed interest in thrifting, websites like Depop and eBay are now their go-to when shopping sustainably. The booming industry is worth an estimated US$ 30 billion with an annual growth rate of 10% to 15% over the next decade, as per McKinsey. Earlier this year, Kering Group, the parent company of Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Venetta and more, invested US$216 million into resale platform Vestiaire Collective. Retail platforms Farfetch and Net-a-porter have also dedicated sections of their websites to resale products only.
3. Regenerative Agriculture
One of the main hurdles in fashion’s sustainability mission is the amount of CO2 emissions created by the production process. However, brands like Eileen Fisher, North Face and Patagonia are providing natural solutions to removing the carbon from our atmosphere via regenerative farming. This alternative method of farming involves growing multiple types of crops in the same field to restore the nutrient levels in the soil. Although incredibly new, regenerative-sourced materials have already hit the market - Omnilytics data showed 137 SKUs tagged with regenerative cotton found across the mens’ and womens’ categories with the majority of the products found in Tops.
What’s next for Sustainability
As the push to slow down climate change and lower the carbon emission levels persist, sustainability will continue to be a topic of focus for most fashion brands. In fact, sustainability concerns over the fashion industry have been well discussed since the ‘90s but the urgency to reduce global rising temperatures makes sustainability a pressing concern today.
As of late, we have seen various environmental targets and commitments set by brands but ensuring the brands will follow through and provide transparency is just as important. “The challenges are known, the solutions are there—there's real possibility to make these important shifts [within the industry],” said Maxine Bédat, executive director at the New Standard Institute think-tank.The recent Glasgow Climate Conference urged the world for change as we enter the world’s worst climate crisis in our lifetime. In an effort to limit the global temperature increase to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels, heads of industry were given a solid warning to reduce emissions and clean up their supply chains.
About the Author
Sufiana Sharuddin
Sufiana Sharuddin is a published fashion writer, honing her interest in the industry during her time at Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design. She currently covers a variety of topics within the industry including business, technology, trends and current affairs.
